This month's recipe is for Sicilian Arancini, those iconic fried rice balls that are a staple of the island's street food scene. These golden spheres of saffron-infused risotto, encased in a crisp breading, conceal a variety of savory fillings. The name, derived from the Italian arancia (orange), alludes to their characteristic shape and color.

Although I have eaten them in our Little Italy, the impetus for learning how to make arancini came while watching the Italian detective series, Montalbano on MHz. Montalbano learns that his housekeeper has made arancini  and drops everything to rush over to feast on these cheesy and savory delights. He and fellow detectives consume them with gusto.  Apparently, in the 4th season there is an episode titled "Gli arancini di Montalbano" (The Anrancini of Montalbano), a title which is borrowed from the author of the original Montalbano stories, Andrea Camilleri, who published a collection of Montalbano series with the same title.

Sicilian cuisine is a reflection of the many cultures that have occupied the island. The roots of arancini can be traced back to the 9th to 11th centuries during the Arab rule of Sicily. The Arabs introduced rice cultivation to the island, particularly in the fertile regions around Palermo and Catania. They also brought saffron, a key ingredient in the traditional preparation of arancini, which lends both color and fragrance to the dish.

Due to its size and location, Sicily has been occupied or conquered by dizzying number external forces. The original inhabitants are thought to have been Sicani, Elymians, and Sicels (hence the name). But over several millennia, Sicily has been controlled or occupied by Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans, Vandals, Ostrogoths, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, German Hohenstaufen, Angevins from France, Aragonese, Spanish, Austrians, and the Bourbons. Sicily only became part of the Kingdom of Italy in the 19th century.

Although all the ingredients predate them, it is possible that arancini came into existence during Norman rule (11th–12th centuries). It is believed that the practice of rolling leftover saffron-infused rice into balls filling them with meat or cheese, breading and frying them began in this period. Frying these rice balls made them portable, perfect for travelers and laborers.

By the Renaissance, Sicilian aristocracy had embraced arancini as a refined dish, served at lavish feasts. Over time, regional variations emerged. The two main styles are the Palermo-style arancini, which are round and often contain a filling of ragù, and the Catania-style arancini, which are conical, resembling Mount Etna, and frequently filled with cheese or a mix of ragù and peas.

In modern Italy (particularly Sicily), arancini are particularly popular on December 13th, the Feast of Santa Lucia, when eating bread and pasta is traditionally avoided. This custom commemorates a historical famine in Sicily when, according to legend, grain ships miraculously arrived in the port on Santa Lucia's feast day. But arancini are eaten throughout the year and can be enjoyed in Sicilian cafés, street vendors, and rosticcerie (fried food shops). They are eaten as a snacks, appetizers, or even full meals.

The East-West cultural culinary divide: In the eastern part of Sicily, these rice balls are conical (likened to Mr. Etna) known by the masculine form of the word for an orange "arancio" and they are called "arancino". Eastern Arancini are typically filled with ragù (meat sauce), mozzarella, and peas. In the west, however, arancini are round and they are known as "arancina" and there the most popular fillings are ragù, ham, mozzarella, and béchamel sauce. Of course, westerners consider their arancini the most authentic, but the easterners entirely disagree!

Cook's Notes:

It is not recommended to use anything but short grain rice for arancini. If you are accustomed to rinsing rice before cooking in (nowadays a suspect necessity), don't. You need the rice to be somewhat sticky. For all intents and purposes, your first task is to make risotto.

Arancini uses seasoned bread crumbs, the most basic being salt and pepper, but feel free to use any Italian herbs or seasoning you have. If you want the crusts to be extra crunchy, use Japanese panko crumbs. We tried both and, while different, both are delicious.

The only thing that is common to all arancini are the rice, breading, and Parmigiano cheese.  Mozzarella cheese and peas are extremely common in Sicily, so we use them in our recipe. Ground beef and ground pork are common additions and there are quite a few recipes for crab, shrimp, and lobster arancini. It is also common to serve arancini with marinara sauce, but if you cook your own, it might be best to forgo adding sugar as the acidity of marinara complements the cheese in arancini.

It is very important to cool the cooked risotto before molding the rice into balls.  I used a casserole dish. This recipe makes 18 arancini.  After the rice was  refrigerated and cooled, I sliced it into 18 portions (a grid of 6x3). This worked our perfectly.

Unless you have a deep fryer, you should fill the pot you are using so that the oil comes up to the center of the rice balls, that way you will be able to brown them evenly.  You will need to add a little oil along the way to replace the small amount incorporated by the cooked rice balls.

The rice should be sticky. Coat your hands with water or oil to form the balls, or do what I did and use nitrile gloves, which also will protect your hands (somewhat) from the hot oil.  The flattened risotto disks you make should be around 6" in diameter.  Sometimes the rice may break apart somewhat, just smooth it over with your fingers. If some of the filling is spilling out, just push it down with a finger.

Get the oil as close to 325°F as possible; you may have to constantly monitor and adjust the heat if you are using a smaller pot.  If the oil doesn't get too hot, you will be able to strain it and use it again another day. 

I used small fresh mozzarella balls purchased at Trader Joe's. They are a perfect size. I was worried that using fresh mozzarella rather than shredded low-moisture mozzarella would make the arancini soggy. That was not the case.

 If you eat the arancini as soon as it has cooked, the mozzarella might be melted but we found that it solidifies quickly.  Reheating in the air fryer at a lower temperature seemed to work to melt the cheese.

If you want to save on paper towels and have the crispest Arancini, put them on a wire rack (instead of paper towels) after you fry them.

Anancini are best eaten soon after they are cooked (but don't burn yourself!) as the mozzarella cheese will be soft and stringy. But they are delicious even at room temperature.

Ingredients:

• 2 cups Arborio or Carnaroli rice
• 3 cups chicken or vegetable broth
• 1/4 cup dry white wine
• 1/2 teaspoon saffron threads
• 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• Salt, to taste
• 1/2 pound ground beef (or a mix of beef and pork)
• 1/2 small onion, finely chopped
• 2-3 cloves of garlic, crushed or finely diced
• 1/2 cup tomato sauce or crushed tomatoes
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
• 1/3 cup frozen peas
• 1/2 cup diced mozzarella cheese (see note above)
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 3 eggs, beaten
• 1 1/2 cups fine breadcrumbs or panko
• Vegetable or sunflower oil for deep frying

Preparation:

1. In a saucepan, heat the broth until warm. Add saffron and let it steep for a few minutes.
2. In another pot, melt 2 tablespoons of butter and add the rice.
3. Add the broth a ladle at a time and stir and then fold.
4. Cook rice for 20 minutes until there is no visible liquid remaining.
5. Remove from heat and stir in the remaining butter, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and salt to taste.
6. Spread the rice onto a tray or casserole dish and let it cool completely before shaping. This step is crucial for handling the rice later.
7. Heat olive oil in a pan over medium heat. Sauté the onions and garlic until soft, about 3 minutes.
8. Add ground meat and cook until browned.
9. Stir in tomato sauce, salt, and pepper. Simmer for 15 minutes.
10. Add the peas and cook for another 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool.
11. Wet your hands to prevent sticking. Take a handful of cooled rice (see note above) and flatten it into a disc.
12. Place a teaspoon spoonful of ragù filling and a small cube or ball of mozzarella in the center.
13. Gently fold the rice around the filling, shaping it into a ball (or a cone if making Catania-style arancini).
14. Repeat until all the rice and filling are used.
15. Roll the rice balls in the flour.
16. Dip the rice balls into beaten eggs, coating evenly.
17. Roll in breadcrumbs, pressing gently to adhere.
18. Heat oil in a deep fryer or heavy pot to 325°F.
19. Fry arancini in batches until golden brown and crispy (about 3–4 minutes per batch).
20. Drain on paper towels or a wire rack.

Serving Suggestions

Arancini are delicious on their own but can be served with marinara sauce or a simple garlic aioli for dipping. They pair wonderfully with a crisp Sicilian white wine like Grillo or a light red like Frappato.

Enjoy your homemade arancini, a bite of Sicilian history and tradition in every crispy, cheesy, flavorful bite!

Recipe by T. Johnston-O'Neill
Photos by Shari K. Johnston-O'Neill